Jun 28

Written by: sophie
Monday, June 28, 2010 9:54 AM 

This was a trip I should have done years ago - a trip that all Australians should do. 

 

I travelled up north with Margot Turner; and Karen Swaffer (glass jewellery designer). The first four days of our trip were spent at Yuendemu - a community north west of Alice - accessible by the unsealed Tanami Track. The bush bus was an experience all in itself - the art centre "Warlukurlangu" is run by a small and dedicated group of women - who support and develop the artists; as well as giving them a calm place to paint. Famous Yuendemu artist, Shorty, paints everyday from the art centre... a character of a man.

From 9am to 6pm we spent our time mixing paints, priming canvasses; and generally getting a better understanding of the Warlpiri people and their stories.

 

From there we headed back down to Alice to meet up with artist Jane Canfield; and our guide and Indigenous artist, Vincent Forrester.

 

We went on the spiritual and physical journey of Vincent Forrester - Indigenous elder, guide, artist, bush and medicine man... the journey with Vincent took us from Alice Springs, south west, down to Uluru. This was an insight into Tjukurpa, the creation period when the ancestral beings created the world - and this is vital to Anangu life and society as it is from this: that religion, law and the moral systems are held.

 

Being Vincent's "land" - there was nothing touristy about this trip - four of us gals and Vincent in a 4WD - walking Kings Canyon where Vincent knew every animal spore and bird call; to naming every plant; edible or medicinal... from a spot where white man first confronted the local mob near Kings Canyon; to going into Lilla (sweet waters in Luritja) - only allowed in with Vincent - a slice of heaven with natural spring and birds galore - however more fascinating was the ancient rock paintings and carvings - a cave where mothers gave birth; followed by where they took the baby to meet the father... the paintings told the story.

Our night under the stars was on Angus Downs - a cattlestation of extraordinary size - where camel and dingo roam - Vincent has native title of the land so we were allowed in - met Tim - a stockman, had the BEST roast beef of our lives around a camp fire; and then found a relatively sheltered spot to sleep under the stars.

Embarrassing to say, my first time in a swag...... my runners were so caked in red dirt and I'm sure tough on the nose, that I was convinced every dingo was going to make a beeline for me that  night - needless to say, I didn't sleep a wink....... but  breakfast of bush onions and yams under the fire ashes made up for all....... plus the sunset and sunrise.

 

I was very impressed with Uluru's Cultural Centre - beautiful architecture with integrity to the land in form, function and colour - and a great range of artworks from different Indigenous art movements: from Western Desert to Utopean... Difficult to get us gals out of there......

 

My favourite evening was parking our 4WD somewhere between Uluru and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) where we scrambled up a dune; and watched the sun bounce of Uluru (the nature of it changing every moment like the Impressionists' strawbales) - while turning our heads right to watch the sinking silhouette of Kata Tjuta.

 

I have come home a new gal...... I feel like I've had a year's worth of valuable information in just 12 days - such self reflection and the realisation of our incredibly strong Indigenous culture - and that every aspect of their lives, is thread through their relationship with the land. THAT, and the wide open skies with low horizons, was for me, HEAVEN......